衛生氣動(dòng)隔膜泵|原裝衛生泵

凱森（KAYSEN）品牌，*的十*，我們的衛生氣動(dòng)隔膜泵在SchwbischGmnd生產(chǎn)。

凱森始終堅持“重質(zhì)量，講信譽(yù)”為宗旨。產(chǎn)品現暢銷(xiāo)全國各地，并已逐步開(kāi)發(fā)海外市場(chǎng)。公司多次被評為“重合同講信用”企業(yè)，深得用戶(hù)的信賴(lài)和廣泛的贊譽(yù)。

KAYSEN凱森氣動(dòng)隔膜泵概述
氣動(dòng)隔膜泵是目前國內*穎的一種泵類(lèi)。對于各種腐蝕性液體，帶顆粒的液體，高粘度、易揮發(fā)、易燃、劇毒的液體，均能予以抽光吸盡。
氣動(dòng)隔膜泵采用壓縮空氣為動(dòng)力源，對于各種腐蝕性液體，帶顆粒的液體，高粘度、易揮發(fā)、易燃、劇毒的液體，均能予以抽光吸盡。
泵體采用四種材質(zhì)，鋁合金、鑄鐵、工程塑料、不銹鋼。根據不同液體介質(zhì)分別采用丁晴橡膠、氯丁橡膠、氟橡膠、聚四氟乙烯。以滿(mǎn)足不同用戶(hù)的需要。

主要特點(diǎn)：
氣動(dòng)隔膜泵不需灌引水，吸程高達7m，揚程達50m，產(chǎn)品揚程可以達到70米左右，出口壓力≥7kgf/cm2; 流動(dòng)寬敞，通過(guò)性能好，允許通過(guò)*顆粒直徑達10mm。抽送泥漿、雜質(zhì)時(shí)，對泵磨損甚微; 揚程、流量可通過(guò)氣閥開(kāi)度實(shí)現無(wú)級調節（氣壓調節在1-7kgf/cm2之間）; 該氣動(dòng)隔膜泵無(wú)旋轉部件，沒(méi)有軸封，隔膜將抽送的介質(zhì)與泵的運動(dòng)部件、工作介質(zhì)完全隔開(kāi)，所輸送的介質(zhì)不會(huì )向外泄漏。所以抽送有毒、易發(fā)揮或腐蝕性介質(zhì)時(shí)，不會(huì )造成環(huán)境污染和危害人身安全; 不必用電，在易燃、易爆場(chǎng)所使用安全可靠; 可以浸沒(méi)在介質(zhì)中工作;
使用方便、工作可靠、開(kāi)停只需簡(jiǎn)單地打開(kāi)和關(guān)閉氣體閥門(mén)，即使由于意外情況而長(cháng)時(shí)間無(wú)介質(zhì)運行或突然停機，氣動(dòng)不銹鋼隔膜泵也不會(huì )因此而損壞，不旦超負荷，泵會(huì )自動(dòng)地停機，具有自我保護性能，當負荷恢復正常后，又有自動(dòng)啟動(dòng)運行; 結構簡(jiǎn)單、易損件少，該氣動(dòng)不銹鋼隔膜泵結構簡(jiǎn)單，安裝、維修方便，泵輸送的介質(zhì)不會(huì )接觸到配氣閥，聯(lián)桿等運動(dòng)部件，不象其他類(lèi)型的泵因轉子、活塞、齒輪、葉片等部件的磨損而使性能逐步下降; 可輸送較粘的液體（粘度在1萬(wàn)厘泊以下）; 本泵無(wú)須用油潤滑，即使空轉，對氣動(dòng)不銹鋼隔膜泵也無(wú)任何影響
 

主要優(yōu)點(diǎn)：
使用方便、工作可靠、開(kāi)停只需簡(jiǎn)單地打開(kāi)和關(guān)閉氣體閥門(mén)，即使由于意外情況而長(cháng)時(shí)間無(wú)介質(zhì)運行或突然停機泵也不會(huì )因此而損壞，一旦超負荷，泵會(huì )自動(dòng)地停機，具有自我保護性能，當負荷恢復正常后，又能自動(dòng)啟動(dòng)運行
結構簡(jiǎn)單、易損件少，該泵結構簡(jiǎn)單，安裝、維修方便，泵輸送的介質(zhì)不會(huì )接觸到配氣閥，聯(lián)桿等運動(dòng)部件，不像其他類(lèi)型的泵因轉子、活塞、齒輪、葉片等部件的磨損而使性能逐步下降
可輸送較粘的液體(粘度在1萬(wàn)厘泊以下）
不需灌引水，吸程高達5米，揚程達70米，出口壓力≧7bar
流動(dòng)寬敞，通過(guò)性能好，允許通過(guò)*顆粒直徑達10毫米。抽送泥漿、雜質(zhì)時(shí)，對泵磨損甚微
本泵無(wú)須用油潤滑，即使空轉，對泵也無(wú)任何影響
不必用電，在易燃、易爆場(chǎng)所使用安全可靠
可以浸沒(méi)在介質(zhì)中工作
揚程、流量可通過(guò)氣閥開(kāi)度實(shí)現無(wú)級調節(氣壓調節在1-7bar之間)
該泵無(wú)旋轉部件，沒(méi)有軸封，隔膜等抽送的介質(zhì)與泵的運動(dòng)部件、工件介質(zhì)完全隔開(kāi)，所輸送的介質(zhì)不會(huì )向外泄漏。所以抽送有毒、易揮發(fā)或腐蝕性介質(zhì)時(shí)，不會(huì )造成環(huán)境污染和危害人身安全

主要應用：
油井鉆好后，用氣動(dòng)隔膜泵吸沉積物及灌漿。
吸各種乳劑和填料。
吸各種污水。
各種強酸、強堿、強腐蝕液體。
吸各種高溫液體*可耐150度。
可以吸花生醬、泡菜、土豆泥、小紅腸、果醬蘋(píng)果漿、巧克力等。
礦井、坑道、隧道、選礦、礦渣中的積水。泵吸水泥灌漿及灰漿。
不銹鋼隔膜泵泵吸各種橡膠漿。
不銹鋼氣動(dòng)隔膜泵可以吸各種磨料、腐蝕劑、石油及泥漿、清洗油垢及一般容器。
可以吸各種劇毒、易燃、易揮發(fā)液體。
不銹鋼氣動(dòng)隔膜泵可以用于吸油漆、樹(shù)膠、顏料。
不銹鋼氣動(dòng)隔膜泵作為各種固液體分離設備的前級送壓裝置。
氣動(dòng)隔膜泵可以用于為油輪，駁船清倉吸取倉內污水。
吸啤酒花及發(fā)酵粉稀漿、糖漿、糖密。
粘合劑和膠水、全部種類(lèi)可用泵吸取。
各種瓦、瓷、磚器及陶器釉漿。

基本的預防性維護保持泵流動(dòng)

執行預防性維護有助于防止泵停機

有人說(shuō)：“你不知道自己得到了什么，直到它消失?！睂τ谌魏卧?jīng)忽視泵的人來(lái)說(shuō)，這個(gè)概念可能是太熟悉了?？煽康谋迷谡９ぷ鲿r(shí)并不真正被認可，但是如果泵的性能下降，或者更糟糕的是，該設備完全停止工作，那么可靠性會(huì )被錯過(guò)。為避免泵停機和隨后的麻煩，必須遵守預防性維護計劃。

每天開(kāi)始泵檢查。最重要的日常檢查之一是發(fā)動(dòng)機油的質(zhì)量和水平。骯臟的油可能會(huì )導致嚴重的問(wèn)題并降低發(fā)動(dòng)機的使用壽命; 同樣，如果數量不足。根據制造商的建議更換機油或根據需要添加以達到水平。

檢查汽油水平，確保油箱已滿(mǎn)，或者至少滿(mǎn)足一天的使用量。同時(shí)尋找任何燃油或漏油跡象。如果液體滴落，請檢查該區域是否有可能需要擰緊或更換的部件。

清潔或可能更換空氣過(guò)濾器是另一個(gè)可以防止重大損壞的重要做法。堵塞，潮濕或骯臟的空氣過(guò)濾器會(huì )導致動(dòng)力損失，并通過(guò)允許污垢或水進(jìn)入敏感區域來(lái)縮短發(fā)動(dòng)機的使用壽命。泡沫元件可以清潔和重復使用，所以每天檢查一下就可以了。如果過(guò)濾器已損壞或缺少大塊，請將其更換。對于紙質(zhì)空氣過(guò)濾器，操作員應按照推薦的時(shí)間表及時(shí)更換。

定期檢查軟管的狀況。如果它們磨損，磨損或有任何漏洞，則氣隙可能會(huì )導致泵失去吸力。修補任何孔并密封泄漏的接頭。應該更換嚴重磨損的軟管。*，檢查機器的其余部分是否有螺栓，螺母或零件松動(dòng)。

在所有的手術(shù)前檢查中，日常維護中最重要的事情可能就是在開(kāi)始之前啟動(dòng)泵。運行干燥的泵會(huì )損壞密封件，導致更多問(wèn)題的連鎖反應。如果是自吸泵，只需加水即可。術(shù)語(yǔ)“自吸”有點(diǎn)用詞不當，因為每次使用時(shí)必須將水添加到泵中。然后泵將接管，在蝸殼內建立壓力并開(kāi)始排放。

不太頻繁的檢查

一旦泵已經(jīng)準備好了，就可以開(kāi)始工作了。除日常檢查外，泵還需要其他維護檢查和服務(wù)。雖然這些不需要每天完成，但它們對泵的使用壽命至關(guān)重要，并應定期按計劃進(jìn)行。一般來(lái)說(shuō)，優(yōu)質(zhì)的泵引擎可以運行幾千小時(shí)，并且遵循推薦的維護計劃只能增加該時(shí)間和泵的投資回報率。

有幾件事情需要每月檢查幾次，其他事件則更少。例如，紙張空氣過(guò)濾器應在需要時(shí)更換。雖然泡沫過(guò)濾器可以清洗并重新使用，但是當它開(kāi)始分解或分解時(shí)，需要更換。

臟的火花塞可能會(huì )導致功率下降和起動(dòng)性能差，因此應每半月檢查一次火花塞是否有殘留油污，污垢，損壞或積碳過(guò)多的情況。用鋼絲刷或火花塞清潔器清潔火花塞。立即更換任何火花塞與裂紋瓷。

每年都要對泵進(jìn)行徹底檢查，檢查是否有骯臟，破損或未對齊的部件。這些部件可能會(huì )導致發(fā)動(dòng)機或泵部件出現問(wèn)題。檢查整臺機器可以*地了解需要清潔和修理的部件。

值得注意的是，灰塵狀況通常會(huì )縮短正常服務(wù)之間的時(shí)間長(cháng)度，因為*的灰塵會(huì )堵塞過(guò)濾器元件或污染燃料和機油。取決于泵的環(huán)境，可能需要調整維護計劃以適應低于*條件。

故障排除提示

即使定期進(jìn)行適當的預防性維護計劃，泵仍然可能會(huì )遇到問(wèn)題。這很不幸，但很常見(jiàn)。知道如何尋找并快速解決問(wèn)題將使問(wèn)題不再成為更昂貴，耗時(shí)的修復。

如果泵不啟動(dòng)，罪魁禍首可能是葉輪或發(fā)動(dòng)機。如果葉輪粘住，只需拆下泵蓋，清潔并重新安裝。至于引擎，幾個(gè)不同的東西可能會(huì )影響它，并阻止從開(kāi)始。

首先要檢查的是火花塞。如果它被油渣，氣體或碳污染，請清潔它。如果它損壞了，請更換它。如果它干凈無(wú)損，請將其連接到插頭蓋并將插頭與發(fā)動(dòng)機機身接地。拉起動(dòng)器，看看火花是否微弱或不存在。如果新的或清潔的插頭沒(méi)有點(diǎn)燃，則點(diǎn)火系統可能有故障，可能需要更換。

如果火花塞松動(dòng)或插頭浸濕燃油，發(fā)動(dòng)機也可能無(wú)法啟動(dòng)。如果火花塞是潮濕的，請檢查燃油旋塞是否關(guān)閉。如果是這樣，關(guān)閉阻風(fēng)門(mén)拉桿并拉動(dòng)起動(dòng)手柄6次，看電極是否變濕。如果電極干燥，問(wèn)題可能與化油器的燃料吸入有關(guān)。試著(zhù)看看燃油停在發(fā)動(dòng)機的哪里。

其他一些事情可能會(huì )導致泵不能自行灌注。首先檢查泵吸入側的漏氣情況; 如果需要，擰緊吸入軟管或管道。檢查排水塞，確保它完全擰緊。泵殼內的水不足也會(huì )阻止泵啟動(dòng)。

發(fā)動(dòng)機轉速也會(huì )影響泵送量。如果泵送量下降，則抽吸軟管可能太長(cháng)或抽吸腔室上的零件松動(dòng)可能需要重新擰緊。這也可能是由于需要降低高吸力，水通道漏水，機械密封磨損或斷裂或發(fā)動(dòng)機輸出功率或速度下降造成的。

采取積極主動(dòng)的預防措施，確保關(guān)鍵的維護服務(wù)不會(huì )被忽視，防止泵出現故障時(shí)產(chǎn)生多米諾骨牌效應，浪費時(shí)間并增加維修成本。這很簡(jiǎn)單直接 - 泵的維護現在意味著(zhù)更少的問(wèn)題。遵循良好的維護計劃，例如上述步驟，是保持泵流量的*和*的方法之一。

Basic Preventive Maintenance to Keep Pumps Flowing

Performing preventive maintenance helps prevent pump downtime

It has been said, “You don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone.” This concept can be all-too-familiar for anyone who has ever neglected a pump. A dependable pump isn’t truly appreciated when it’s working properly but that dependability is really missed if a pump’s performance declines, or worse, the unit stops working altogether. To avoid pump downtime and subsequent headaches, a preventive maintenance program must be followed.

Start each day with a pump inspection. Among the most important daily checks is the quality and level of engine oil. Oil that’s dirty can cause serious problems and decrease the life of an engine; likewise, if there’s an insufficient amount of it. Change the oil or add if necessary to reach the level as per manufacturer recommendation.

Check the gasoline level as well, making sure the tank is full, or at least full enough for the day’s usage. Also look for any evidence of fuel or oil leaks. If a fluid is dripping, inspect the area for any parts that may need to be tightened or replaced.

Cleaning or possibly changing the air filter is another important practice that can prevent significant damage. A clogged, wet or dirty air filter can lead to a loss in power and shorten the life of an engine by allowing dirt or water into sensitive areas. A foam element can be cleaned and reused, so it’s fine to check daily. If the filter has been damaged or is missing chunks, replace it. For paper air filters, operators should follow a recommended schedule for replacement in a timely fashion.

Inspect the condition of the hoses regularly, as well. If they are worn, frayed or have any holes, the air gaps will likely cause the pump to lose suction. Patch any holes and seal leaking joints. A severely worn hose should be replaced. Finally, check the rest of the machine for broken bolts, nuts or loose parts.

Of all the pre-operation checks, perhaps the most important thing to remember for daily maintenance is priming the pump before starting. Running a pump dry will damage the seals, causing a chain reaction of further problems. If it’s a self-priming pump, simply add water. The term “self-priming” is somewhat of a misnomer, as water must be added to the pump each time it is used. The pump will then take over, build pressure within the volute and begin discharging.

Less-frequent Checks

Once the pump has been prepped, it’s ready to go to work. In addition to daily checks, a pump requires other maintenance checks and services. While those don’t need to be done daily, they are crucial to the pump’s life and should be kept up with on a regular schedule. Generally, quality pump engines can operate for a few thousand hours, and following recommended maintenance schedules can only increase that time and the pump’s ROI.

A few things need to be checked a couple of times a month, others even less frequently. For instance, a paper air filter should be changed when needed. Although a foam filter can be cleaned and re-used, when it begins to disintegrate or come apart, replacement is necessary.

Dirty spark plugs can cause a decrease in power and poor starting performance, so the spark plugs should be checked semi-monthly for oil residue, dirt, damage or excessive carbon buildup. Clean spark plugs with a wire brush or spark plug cleaner. Immediately replace any spark plugs with cracked porcelain.

On an annual basis, give the pump a thorough inspection for dirty, broken or misaligned parts. Such parts can cause problems with the engine or pump components. Inspecting the entire machine gives the most comprehensive view of what needs to be cleaned and repaired.

It’s also worth noting that dusty conditions typically shorten the length of time between regular services, as extreme dust can clog filter elements or contaminate fuel and oil. Depending on the pump’s environment, maintenance schedules may need to be adjusted to accommodate for less than optimal conditions.

Tips For Troubleshooting

Even with a regular, proper preventive maintenance program, pumps may still experience problems. This is unfortunate, but common. Knowing what to look for and addressing it quickly will keep the problem from becoming a more expensive, time-intensive repair.

If a pump won’t start, the culprit is likely the impeller or engine. If the impeller is sticking, simply disassemble it by taking the pump cover off, clean and reinstall. As for the engine, several different things could affect it and prevent if from starting.

The first thing to check is the spark plug. If it’s dirty with oil residue, gas or carbon, clean it. If it’s damaged, replace it. If it’s clean and damage-free, connect it to the plug cap and ground the plug against the engine body. Pull the starter to see if the spark is weak or nonexistent. If a new or cleaned plug doesn’t spark, the ignition system could be faulty and may need replacement.

The engine also might not start if the spark plug is loose or if the plug is wet with fuel. If the spark plug is wet, check to see that the fuel cock is closed. If so, close the choke lever and pull the starter handle a half-dozen times to see if the electrode becomes wet. If the electrode is dry, the problem may be with the fuel intake of the carburetor. Try to see where the fuel stops in the engine.

A number of other things could cause a pump to not self-prime. Start by checking for air leaks on the suction side of the pump; tighten the suction hose or pipe, if needed. Check the drain plug, as well, to ensure that it has been tightened completely. Insufficient water inside the pump casing will also prevent the pump from priming.

Engine speed can affect pumping volume, as well. If the pumping volume has dropped, the suction hose may be too long or loose parts on the suction chamber may need re-tightening. This might also be caused by a high suction lift that would need to be lowered, water leaking from the water passage, a worn or broken mechanical seal or a drop in engine output or speed.

Adopting a proactive preventive approach ensures that crucial maintenance services won’t be neglected, preventing a domino effect of problems as the pump goes down, time is lost and repair costs add up. It’s simple and straightforward - pump maintenance now will mean fewer issues later. Following a good maintenance program, such as the steps detailed above, is among the best and most inexpensive ways to keep a pump flowing.

衛生氣動(dòng)隔膜泵|原裝衛生泵